By Jason Wagner
I’ve owned this beauty for a little while, so here are my thoughts.
Basic Information: 1085 Carbon Steel
Powder coated surface
About a 10 inch cutting edge
11 ½ inch total blade length
Weight 1.7 pound
The Ka-Bar Kukri is made by, Ka-Bar, of course, but unlike most of their blades, this isn’t made in the USA, but rather Taiwan, which at least is still better than China.
Originally the Kukri was the premier utility blade of the Nepalese people. As you’d expect, they quickly realized the combat potential of this blade and used the same weapon for killing as they did for farming.
This Kukri is a total beast. Really, I couldn’t imagine a better zombie killer for the zombie apocalypse, except maybe a pump action shotgun, and even then I wouldn’t go without this as my backup.
What’s remarkable about this weapon is that its steel is very strong, and more importantly, very hefty. This translates to very powerful chops.
As the history snippet suggests, this weapon is a utility tool first, and a powerful weapon second. The utility uses are numerous, such as splitting wood and clearing heavy brush.
The blade came razor sharp, which makes for a truly terrifying weapon.
The sheath, I believe it’s made in China, and its quality half-reflects that…It’s a good sheath, don’t get me wrong, it serves all the purposes you’d expect of it, but there’s no bells and whistles, which is fine. If it really means so much to you, you can buy a fancier sheath later on. For me, what’s more important is the blade…not that a nice sheath isn’t important, which is why I pointed out its flaws.
The powder coated metal of this machete definitely ups my opinion of it, for it’ll stave off rust, so long as you use common sense. As Sun Tzu said, even the finest sword when plunged into salt water will eventually rust.
Ultimately, the role that I think this machete serves is being a CQB weapon and as a sidearm to a ballistic weapon that also serves as an incredible utility tool.
An additional perk of owning this wondrous utility machete of mass destruction is it’s extremely easy to sharpen.
Sharpening the blade: Unlike sharpening other knives, the sharpening of a Kukri is fairly fool-proof: All you need is a sharpening puck. To sharpen it, you need to use circular swirling motions across the edges. The exact process is simple, yet slightly hard to explain without a video, so just search the web for one.
Make-shift sharpening method: When it comes to surviving a survival situation, the more options you’ve got, the better your odds. In this case, you can sharpen your Kukri with polished river stones. Just find a smooth river stone and you’ve got something you can sharpen and polish your edge with. The sharpening method itself is much the same as the sharpening puck method; simply rub both sides of the edge with circular motions until sharp.
I own several high-end blades and tactical tools, but of all of them, none are currently quite as beloved to me as this Ka-Bar Kukri machete; for this embodies all of the essential traits of a survival tool.
As a final point and note: The blades structure thickens the closer it gets to the base, so, in practices that means you aren’t meant to chop with the tip of the blade, rather, kukri’s are designed with strong, centeral chop in mind. The reason for the thin at the tip, thick at the bottom design of this is three fold, one is to save on resources without compromising the kukri’s integrity, two is to cut back on weight and the third reason is, whenever you put the kukri to use, you want to strike whatever it’s that you’re striking at with the center of the blade, which is why it’s angled the way that it’s, and in striking with the center of the blade, the energy concentrates at the point of impact, and efficiently resonates and dissipates across the swath of the weapons body.